|
The
Process we followed
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 |
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Get
a plaster negative of the players face
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Produce
a clay positive of the players face
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Add
clay to make the face look like the character
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Slice
the clay the long way on the face to make 3/4
inch wide slices
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Cut
3/4 inch wide planks with a band [or jig] saw
to make them match the corresponding clay slice
|
| Trim
the bevels on the wood |
| Glue
the wooden slabs together |
| Do
finishing work on the wooden model to make the right
surface [with chisels and/or grinders] |
| Take
a piece of 5 oz vegetable tanned leather and try
it on the form, and then cut out a slightly generous
piece to make the mask |
| Skive
the leather to get the roughness off the back of
it [expert mask makers know where they want the
leather to be thin for delicate shaping, we didn't]
|
| Soak
the leather in hot water for about five minutes
[until the air bubbles stop coming out of it] |
| Press
the leather onto/into the form and tack it to the
back [we used a wooden 'thumb' for this step] |
| While
the leather is still very wet, hammer it into place
[and soften it] with the tip of a cow's horn. Cut
slits for the eyes and nostrils. |
| Re-tack
the mask on the back if necessary. Smooth the surface
with the wooden thumb. Let it dry overnight on the
form |
| Mend
the seam at the tip of the nose [for the Dottore
mask, re-inforce the bridge of the nose with wire] |
| Make
the edges by trimming, skiving, and folding back
the edge material. Possibly include a wire to keep
the shape better |
| Dye
the leather and apply protective coating. Add eyebrows,
facial hair, and ties for the back |
| Do
any required painting |
| Note:
in later work, we opted to create a plaster master
form to work on, as it required many fewer hours
of labor |
